ABC 7 Chicago News

Bohemian Crystal

Tonight, Food Critic James Ward covers a suburban restaurant that he says is as deliciously ethnic as anything the city has to offer! James, take us to Bohemian Crystal! It’s a notable Czech restaurant –a family place –with a special appeal to folks of a certain age –my age –because it offers humongous heapings of hefty vittles at low-low prices. So, loosen your belts for some Bohemian, Moravian, Slovakian and sub-Carpathian Ruthenian cookery!

Just off Ogden in west suburban Westmont, Bohemian Crystal has spacious parking without –and within — spacious and gracious seating & service. These mobile & sweetly solicitous Czech waitresses do a swell job …all under the amiable direction of owner Jerry Zita.

The place itself is out-of-this-world Old World –filled with all kinds of Czech tchotzkes — including, of course, Bohemian Crystal –as weighty as the food –a knock-out combo of German and Slavic subtlety. That means plenty of sauerkraut, cabbage, red cabbage, potatoes –boiled or instant-mashed –and dumplings, dumplings, dumplings.

There are more dishes and menus here than a Chinese restaurant –with such high-off-the-hog pig-out treats as buttcakes –smoked butt in potato pancakes! Love it! As I do the roast pork entree …and the House Specialty of pork loin & butt.

Other best sellers include the mountainous Moravian Platter –meatloaf, pork, veal and duck. Also, catch the BBQ ribs –they may not be Czech but these St. Louis spares are tops!

Other favorites of mine –a beautiful lamb shank with barley dressing …and that unique Czech dish –fruit dumplings with cottage cheese, sugar and melted butter. Unbelievable! Also remember –entrees come with a long list of starters & sides from soup or salad to starches & sweets –kolackys or jiggly red jello! That’s a lotta food!

But happily, you can pack up what’s left and take it home.

You can also take home good cheer!

“Stastny Novy Rok!” Says one waitress — That’s Czech for “Happy New Year!”

Bohemian Crystal is at 639 N. Blackhawk in Westmont. Call 630-789-1981. Average tab for lunch, 7 bucks; dinner about $11.50.

And on a scale of 1 to 10, Bohemian Crystal gets a Bread rating of 7 for food; and a 7 for Circuses!

Published on January 4th 2002